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Varanasi The Holy City on Banks of Ganga

There are many hotels and lodges inchildren, pregnant women, holy men and
Varanasi but the better ones arethe diseased are simply immersed into
situated in the cantonment area, whichthe Ganges to as to give them another
is 20 minutes away from the ghats. Ifchance to come back to this world.
you don't mind compromising on luxury,Researchers reveal that on an average,
it's best to stay at a small cheap lodge45,000 bodies are deposited in the river
on the ghats to be close to all theevery year. The government has
action. We decided to stay at Hotelapparently tried many remedial measures
Riverview, a family run lodge, nearto counter water pollution, many of
Brahma Ghat. Apart from great food, ourwhich failed. An organisation even
room overlooked the Ganges and had aintroduced turtles into the river to
magnificent view of the entire stretchtake care of the bodies but strangely
of the ghats. Varanasi, at first sight,the creatures disappeared. However,
comes across as a rather filthy andscientists have come to understand that
dirty town. The narrow gullies in thelike most mountain rivers, the Ganges
old city are littered with animal anddoes have a miraculous property of
human waste, trash and slush. You havecleansing itself. Little wonder that it
two choices: Either shake your head inis considered holy by the Hindus.
disgust or get used to the litter.But Varanasi's huge population does seem
Choose the latter and your experienceto push things a bit too far. The river
starts. Quaint shops selling eatables,is used for almost everything, from
paan shops in every corner, smallwashing clothes to bathing buffaloes.
temples, priests saying their prayers,And that doesn't deter people from
masseurs, barbers…every nook andtaking their holy dip which is an
corner of these gullies holds a surpriseexperience in itself. We spent an hour
for you.swimming in the river at Scindia ghat
We spent the first day walking acrosswhich is probably the cleanest and came
the ghats and understanding them.out rejuvenated and clean of all sins.
Manikarnika and Harishchandra ghats areIf you are in Varanasi for that
where the dead are cremated.spiritual experience, you have to visit
Dasashwamedha ghat is the most sacredthe Kashi Vishwanath temple but
and sadly also the most commerciallyremember, only Hindus are allowed. While
exploited. Boatmen vie with each otheroffering prayers, you will be accosted
to grab on to tourists, masseurs willby many priests who will pull you to
beg you to oblige them and beggars willtheir corner and chant mantras. This
hound you. But things change as the sunagain means donations. Apart from being
sets and the prayer session starts. Thespiritual, a trip to Varanasi can also
place becomes choc-a-bloc with pilgrimsbe a great gastronomic experience. The
and tourists who come to watch the pujatown is famous for its aloo puri and
and the river, by then spectacular withlassi. Shops in every nook and corner
hundreds of little floating diyas. Weserve these and many other milk
decided to watch the "show" from theproducts. A great culmination to a heavy
river and hired boat for Rs. 200. Themeal would obviously be the special
entire stretch of the river along theBenarsi pan. Another trademark is the
ghats takes one and a half hours and yousilk saree. You will find many shops
can even stop at Karnataka ghat for somelined across the main market selling the
chai served in clay cups.gorgeous six yards. In all probability,
Manikarnika ghat is where the dead getyou will be frequently accosted by
their ticket to heaven. There are many"friendly" locals who will have a long
dharamshalas along these ghats where thechat with you by the end of which they
old and aged come to spend their lastwill "invite" you to their homes. These
days. It is slightly disturbing to enterare saree sellers and in most cases they
these shelters and watch the old,"pressurise" their "guests" to buy from
waiting for their death without thethem. The best bet would be to shop at
slightest hint of despair on theirthe state government run shops.
faces.Entertainment at night could be a visit
On an average, three bodies are crematedto the government-run bhang shops in the
at Manikarnika and Harishchandra ghatscity. But nothing can be more elevating
at any given point of time. According tothan sailing down the Ganges watching
belief, these rituals save the dead fromthe lights of the old city shimmer in
being reborn in this cruel world. Deadthe darkness of the night.



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