| There are many hotels and lodges in Varanasi but the | | | | are simply immersed into the Ganges to as to give |
| better ones are situated in the cantonment area, which | | | | them another chance to come back to this world. |
| is 20 minutes away from the ghats. If you don't mind | | | | Researchers reveal that on an average, 45,000 bodies |
| compromising on luxury, it's best to stay at a small | | | | are deposited in the river every year. The government |
| cheap lodge on the ghats to be close to all the action. | | | | has apparently tried many remedial measures to |
| We decided to stay at Hotel Riverview, a family run | | | | counter water pollution, many of which failed. An |
| lodge, near Brahma Ghat. Apart from great food, our | | | | organisation even introduced turtles into the river to |
| room overlooked the Ganges and had a magnificent | | | | take care of the bodies but strangely the creatures |
| view of the entire stretch of the ghats. Varanasi, at | | | | disappeared. However, scientists have come to |
| first sight, comes across as a rather filthy and dirty | | | | understand that like most mountain rivers, the Ganges |
| town. The narrow gullies in the old city are littered with | | | | does have a miraculous property of cleansing itself. |
| animal and human waste, trash and slush. You have | | | | Little wonder that it is considered holy by the Hindus. |
| two choices: Either shake your head in disgust or get | | | | But Varanasi's huge population does seem to push |
| used to the litter. Choose the latter and your | | | | things a bit too far. The river is used for almost |
| experience starts. Quaint shops selling eatables, paan | | | | everything, from washing clothes to bathing buffaloes. |
| shops in every corner, small temples, priests saying | | | | And that doesn't deter people from taking their holy dip |
| their prayers, masseurs, barbers…every nook | | | | which is an experience in itself. We spent an hour |
| and corner of these gullies holds a surprise for you. | | | | swimming in the river at Scindia ghat which is probably |
| We spent the first day walking across the ghats and | | | | the cleanest and came out rejuvenated and clean of |
| understanding them. Manikarnika and Harishchandra | | | | all sins. If you are in Varanasi for that spiritual |
| ghats are where the dead are cremated. | | | | experience, you have to visit the Kashi Vishwanath |
| Dasashwamedha ghat is the most sacred and sadly | | | | temple but remember, only Hindus are allowed. While |
| also the most commercially exploited. Boatmen vie | | | | offering prayers, you will be accosted by many priests |
| with each other to grab on to tourists, masseurs will | | | | who will pull you to their corner and chant mantras. |
| beg you to oblige them and beggars will hound you. | | | | This again means donations. Apart from being spiritual, |
| But things change as the sun sets and the prayer | | | | a trip to Varanasi can also be a great gastronomic |
| session starts. The place becomes choc-a-bloc with | | | | experience. The town is famous for its aloo puri and |
| pilgrims and tourists who come to watch the puja and | | | | lassi. Shops in every nook and corner serve these and |
| the river, by then spectacular with hundreds of little | | | | many other milk products. A great culmination to a |
| floating diyas. We decided to watch the "show" from | | | | heavy meal would obviously be the special Benarsi |
| the river and hired boat for Rs. 200. The entire stretch | | | | pan. Another trademark is the silk saree. You will find |
| of the river along the ghats takes one and a half hours | | | | many shops lined across the main market selling the |
| and you can even stop at Karnataka ghat for some | | | | gorgeous six yards. In all probability, you will be |
| chai served in clay cups. | | | | frequently accosted by "friendly" locals who will have a |
| Manikarnika ghat is where the dead get their ticket to | | | | long chat with you by the end of which they will "invite" |
| heaven. There are many dharamshalas along these | | | | you to their homes. These are saree sellers and in |
| ghats where the old and aged come to spend their | | | | most cases they "pressurise" their "guests" to buy |
| last days. It is slightly disturbing to enter these shelters | | | | from them. The best bet would be to shop at the |
| and watch the old, waiting for their death without the | | | | state government run shops. |
| slightest hint of despair on their faces. | | | | Entertainment at night could be a visit to the |
| On an average, three bodies are cremated at | | | | government-run bhang shops in the city. But nothing |
| Manikarnika and Harishchandra ghats at any given | | | | can be more elevating than sailing down the Ganges |
| point of time. According to belief, these rituals save the | | | | watching the lights of the old city shimmer in the |
| dead from being reborn in this cruel world. Dead | | | | darkness of the night. |
| children, pregnant women, holy men and the diseased | | | | |