| There are many hotels and lodges in Varanasi | | | | women, holy men and the diseased are simply |
| but the better ones are situated in the | | | | immersed into the Ganges to as to give them |
| cantonment area, which is 20 minutes away | | | | another chance to come back to this world. |
| from the ghats. If you don't mind | | | | Researchers reveal that on an average, 45,000 |
| compromising on luxury, it's best to stay at | | | | bodies are deposited in the river every year. |
| a small cheap lodge on the ghats to be close | | | | The government has apparently tried many |
| to all the action. We decided to stay at | | | | remedial measures to counter water pollution, |
| Hotel Riverview, a family run lodge, near | | | | many of which failed. An organisation even |
| Brahma Ghat. Apart from great food, our room | | | | introduced turtles into the river to take |
| overlooked the Ganges and had a magnificent | | | | care of the bodies but strangely the |
| view of the entire stretch of the ghats. | | | | creatures disappeared. However, scientists |
| Varanasi, at first sight, comes across as a | | | | have come to understand that like most |
| rather filthy and dirty town. The narrow | | | | mountain rivers, the Ganges does have a |
| gullies in the old city are littered with | | | | miraculous property of cleansing itself. |
| animal and human waste, trash and slush. You | | | | Little wonder that it is considered holy by |
| have two choices: Either shake your head in | | | | the Hindus. |
| disgust or get used to the litter. Choose the | | | | |
| latter and your experience starts. Quaint | | | | But Varanasi's huge population does seem to |
| shops selling eatables, paan shops in every | | | | push things a bit too far. The river is used |
| corner, small temples, priests saying their | | | | for almost everything, from washing clothes |
| prayers, masseurs, barbers…every nook | | | | to bathing buffaloes. And that doesn't deter |
| and corner of these gullies holds a surprise | | | | people from taking their holy dip which is an |
| for you. | | | | experience in itself. We spent an hour |
| | | | swimming in the river at Scindia ghat which |
| We spent the first day walking across the | | | | is probably the cleanest and came out |
| ghats and understanding them. Manikarnika and | | | | rejuvenated and clean of all sins. If you |
| Harishchandra ghats are where the dead are | | | | are in Varanasi for that spiritual |
| cremated. Dasashwamedha ghat is the most | | | | experience, you have to visit the Kashi |
| sacred and sadly also the most commercially | | | | Vishwanath temple but remember, only Hindus |
| exploited. Boatmen vie with each other to | | | | are allowed. While offering prayers, you will |
| grab on to tourists, masseurs will beg you to | | | | be accosted by many priests who will pull you |
| oblige them and beggars will hound you. But | | | | to their corner and chant mantras. This again |
| things change as the sun sets and the prayer | | | | means donations. Apart from being spiritual, |
| session starts. The place becomes choc-a-bloc | | | | a trip to Varanasi can also be a great |
| with pilgrims and tourists who come to watch | | | | gastronomic experience. The town is famous |
| the puja and the river, by then spectacular | | | | for its aloo puri and lassi. Shops in every |
| with hundreds of little floating diyas. We | | | | nook and corner serve these and many other |
| decided to watch the "show" from the river | | | | milk products. A great culmination to a heavy |
| and hired boat for Rs. 200. The entire | | | | meal would obviously be the special Benarsi |
| stretch of the river along the ghats takes | | | | pan. Another trademark is the silk saree. You |
| one and a half hours and you can even stop at | | | | will find many shops lined across the main |
| Karnataka ghat for some chai served in clay | | | | market selling the gorgeous six yards. In all |
| cups. | | | | probability, you will be frequently accosted |
| | | | by "friendly" locals who will have a long |
| Manikarnika ghat is where the dead get their | | | | chat with you by the end of which they will |
| ticket to heaven. There are many dharamshalas | | | | "invite" you to their homes. These are saree |
| along these ghats where the old and aged come | | | | sellers and in most cases they "pressurise" |
| to spend their last days. It is slightly | | | | their "guests" to buy from them. The best bet |
| disturbing to enter these shelters and watch | | | | would be to shop at the state government run |
| the old, waiting for their death without the | | | | shops. |
| slightest hint of despair on their faces. | | | | |
| | | | Entertainment at night could be a visit to |
| On an average, three bodies are cremated at | | | | the government-run bhang shops in the city. |
| Manikarnika and Harishchandra ghats at any | | | | But nothing can be more elevating than |
| given point of time. According to belief, | | | | sailing down the Ganges watching the lights |
| these rituals save the dead from being reborn | | | | of the old city shimmer in the darkness of |
| in this cruel world. Dead children, pregnant | | | | the night. |