| There are many hotels and lodges in | | | | children, pregnant women, holy men and |
| Varanasi but the better ones are | | | | the diseased are simply immersed into |
| situated in the cantonment area, which | | | | the Ganges to as to give them another |
| is 20 minutes away from the ghats. If | | | | chance to come back to this world. |
| you don't mind compromising on luxury, | | | | Researchers reveal that on an average, |
| it's best to stay at a small cheap lodge | | | | 45,000 bodies are deposited in the river |
| on the ghats to be close to all the | | | | every year. The government has |
| action. We decided to stay at Hotel | | | | apparently tried many remedial measures |
| Riverview, a family run lodge, near | | | | to counter water pollution, many of |
| Brahma Ghat. Apart from great food, our | | | | which failed. An organisation even |
| room overlooked the Ganges and had a | | | | introduced turtles into the river to |
| magnificent view of the entire stretch | | | | take care of the bodies but strangely |
| of the ghats. Varanasi, at first sight, | | | | the creatures disappeared. However, |
| comes across as a rather filthy and | | | | scientists have come to understand that |
| dirty town. The narrow gullies in the | | | | like most mountain rivers, the Ganges |
| old city are littered with animal and | | | | does have a miraculous property of |
| human waste, trash and slush. You have | | | | cleansing itself. Little wonder that it |
| two choices: Either shake your head in | | | | is considered holy by the Hindus. |
| disgust or get used to the litter. | | | | But Varanasi's huge population does seem |
| Choose the latter and your experience | | | | to push things a bit too far. The river |
| starts. Quaint shops selling eatables, | | | | is used for almost everything, from |
| paan shops in every corner, small | | | | washing clothes to bathing buffaloes. |
| temples, priests saying their prayers, | | | | And that doesn't deter people from |
| masseurs, barbers…every nook and | | | | taking their holy dip which is an |
| corner of these gullies holds a surprise | | | | experience in itself. We spent an hour |
| for you. | | | | swimming in the river at Scindia ghat |
| We spent the first day walking across | | | | which is probably the cleanest and came |
| the ghats and understanding them. | | | | out rejuvenated and clean of all sins. |
| Manikarnika and Harishchandra ghats are | | | | If you are in Varanasi for that |
| where the dead are cremated. | | | | spiritual experience, you have to visit |
| Dasashwamedha ghat is the most sacred | | | | the Kashi Vishwanath temple but |
| and sadly also the most commercially | | | | remember, only Hindus are allowed. While |
| exploited. Boatmen vie with each other | | | | offering prayers, you will be accosted |
| to grab on to tourists, masseurs will | | | | by many priests who will pull you to |
| beg you to oblige them and beggars will | | | | their corner and chant mantras. This |
| hound you. But things change as the sun | | | | again means donations. Apart from being |
| sets and the prayer session starts. The | | | | spiritual, a trip to Varanasi can also |
| place becomes choc-a-bloc with pilgrims | | | | be a great gastronomic experience. The |
| and tourists who come to watch the puja | | | | town is famous for its aloo puri and |
| and the river, by then spectacular with | | | | lassi. Shops in every nook and corner |
| hundreds of little floating diyas. We | | | | serve these and many other milk |
| decided to watch the "show" from the | | | | products. A great culmination to a heavy |
| river and hired boat for Rs. 200. The | | | | meal would obviously be the special |
| entire stretch of the river along the | | | | Benarsi pan. Another trademark is the |
| ghats takes one and a half hours and you | | | | silk saree. You will find many shops |
| can even stop at Karnataka ghat for some | | | | lined across the main market selling the |
| chai served in clay cups. | | | | gorgeous six yards. In all probability, |
| Manikarnika ghat is where the dead get | | | | you will be frequently accosted by |
| their ticket to heaven. There are many | | | | "friendly" locals who will have a long |
| dharamshalas along these ghats where the | | | | chat with you by the end of which they |
| old and aged come to spend their last | | | | will "invite" you to their homes. These |
| days. It is slightly disturbing to enter | | | | are saree sellers and in most cases they |
| these shelters and watch the old, | | | | "pressurise" their "guests" to buy from |
| waiting for their death without the | | | | them. The best bet would be to shop at |
| slightest hint of despair on their | | | | the state government run shops. |
| faces. | | | | Entertainment at night could be a visit |
| On an average, three bodies are cremated | | | | to the government-run bhang shops in the |
| at Manikarnika and Harishchandra ghats | | | | city. But nothing can be more elevating |
| at any given point of time. According to | | | | than sailing down the Ganges watching |
| belief, these rituals save the dead from | | | | the lights of the old city shimmer in |
| being reborn in this cruel world. Dead | | | | the darkness of the night. |